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Kitchens

Kitchen Layouts Explained: Which One Fits Your Room?

5 min read 5 sections

Galley, L-shaped, U-shaped, island and peninsula kitchens compared, with the real clearances each needs in millimetres and the rooms they work in.

In short: Kitchen layout is decided by two measurements before it is decided by taste: the width of the room and the gap you can leave between opposing runs. A galley needs 1,200mm between runs. An island needs 1,000mm of clearance all round, which means a room at least 3,600mm wide before an island is possible at all. Get those numbers right and any layout works; get them wrong and the most expensive kitchen in the world is unpleasant to cook in.

What's in this guide 5 sections
  1. The five layouts
  2. The clearances that decide everything
  3. Is the work triangle still relevant?
  4. Which layout for which room?
  5. What to sort out before the layout is fixed

01 The five layouts

The minimum widths above are hard floors, not preferences. They come from the depth of a base unit — 600mm, or 650mm once the door and handle are on — plus the walking and door-opening space between.

LayoutMinimum room widthWorks best inWeakness
Single run1,800mmNarrow rooms, flats, utility spacesLittle worktop; everything in a line
Galley (two facing runs)2,400mmLong narrow roomsThrough-traffic makes it unusable
L-shaped2,400mm on both wallsMost UK kitchens; open-plan cornersCorner cupboard is always awkward
U-shaped2,900mmDedicated kitchens, keen cooksTwo corners; can feel enclosed
Island3,600mmKitchen-diners and extensionsNeeds services run to the middle of the floor
Peninsula3,000mmRooms too narrow for an islandBlocks one route through the room

02 The clearances that decide everything

If you remember nothing else from this guide, remember these six numbers. They are the difference between a kitchen that works and one that annoys you every day for fifteen years.

GapMinimumComfortable
Between two facing runs (galley)1,000mm1,200mm
Around an island, all sides900mm1,000–1,200mm
Between island and a run with an appliance door1,100mm1,200mm
Worktop landing space beside the hob300mm400mm
Worktop landing space beside the sink400mm600mm
Worktop between hob and sink600mm900mm
Wall unit above a worktop450mm500–600mm

The one people regret most is the island clearance. At 900mm two people cannot pass, and a dishwasher door opened across the gap blocks the route entirely. If you cannot achieve 1,000mm on every side, a peninsula will serve you better than a cramped island — and it costs less, because the services stay at the wall.

03 Is the work triangle still relevant?

The work triangle — the idea that the sink, hob and fridge should form a triangle with sides between 1,200mm and 2,700mm — dates from 1940s research into single-cook kitchens, and it is still a useful sanity check rather than a rule. If your sink and hob end up nine metres apart, the triangle has told you something true.

What has replaced it in practice is zoning: grouping the kitchen by what happens where, rather than by three appliances. A modern kitchen usually has a prep zone (sink, bin, chopping space), a cooking zone (hob, oven, landing space either side), a storage zone (fridge, larder) and often a serving or drinks zone away from the cooking. Two people can work in a zoned kitchen at once, which a triangle never accounted for.

Galley kitchen with a black sink, induction hob and brick-effect splashback
Our own work — kitchens, North Derbyshire.

04 Which layout for which room?

  1. A room under 2,400mm wide — single run, and put the tall units at one end. Do not attempt a galley; you will not be able to open the oven.
  2. A long narrow room with a door at each end — galley, but be honest about the traffic. If the route to the garden runs through it, the far run should be storage rather than the hob.
  3. A squarish room of 3m × 3m — L-shaped, with the hob and sink on different legs. This is the layout most UK kitchens should be and the one that goes wrong least.
  4. A dedicated kitchen at least 2,900mm wide, where you cook seriously — U-shaped. It gives the most worktop per square metre of any layout and puts everything within a step.
  5. An open-plan kitchen-diner at least 3,600mm wide — island, provided you can get power, water and waste to the middle of the floor. In a solid concrete floor, price that up before committing to it.
  6. A room between 3,000mm and 3,600mm that wants to feel open — peninsula. It gives you the seating and the sightline of an island without the clearance requirement or the service runs.

05 What to sort out before the layout is fixed

  • Where the soil stack and drainage are. Moving a sink means moving waste, and waste needs a fall — this constrains layouts more than anything else in the room.
  • Whether the hob is gas or induction. Induction frees the layout considerably and removes the need for a gas run to an island.
  • Where the extraction can go. An extractor over an island either needs ducting through the ceiling or is a recirculating unit, which is much less effective. Decide before the ceiling is closed up.
  • Which way every door opens — the room door, the appliance doors, and the back door. Draw them all open on the plan at once. This is where clearances are lost.
  • Where the window is. A sink under a window is a preference, not a rule, and forcing it can cost you a better layout.
  • Whether a wall is structural. A layout that depends on removing a wall is a different project with a different budget and a building control application.

Reading up before you commit is exactly the right order to do this in. When you are ready, the quote is free.

Good to know

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the minimum space needed for a kitchen island?
An island needs a minimum of 900mm clearance on every side, and 1,000mm to 1,200mm is what actually works day to day. With a standard 1,000mm-deep island, that means the room must be at least 2,800mm wide as an absolute minimum and realistically 3,600mm to include a run of base units on one wall. Below that, a peninsula gives you the same worktop and seating without the pinch points.
What is the best kitchen layout for a small kitchen?
An L-shape in a squarish room, or a single run in a narrow one. Both keep one side of the room free, which is what makes a small kitchen feel usable rather than boxed in. In a small kitchen the biggest gains come from full-height tall units rather than from the layout — replacing a run of wall cupboards with a floor-to-ceiling larder typically adds more storage than any layout change.
How much worktop space do you need in a kitchen?
As a working minimum, 400mm of clear worktop on one side of the sink and 300mm on the other, 300mm on each side of the hob, and one continuous run of at least 900mm for actual preparation. A kitchen that meets those and no more is tight but functional. Most complaints about a new kitchen come down to a prep run that was sacrificed to fit one more appliance in.
Should the sink go under the window?
It is a preference with a practical origin — natural light and somewhere to look while washing up — and it is worth having if it does not distort the rest of the layout. It is not worth relocating drainage across a room to achieve, and it is not worth losing your only good prep run for. With a dishwasher doing most of the work, the case for it is weaker than it was.
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